PROGRESS TECHNOLOGY - Technical Information

Frequently Asked Questions
           
How low is my car going to sit?
Each application varies; the lowered amounts are listed on the individual spring pages in our online store.  Remember, we build true “Sport Springs”, not just “lowering” springs.  A true sport spring must take into account the performance and ride quality of the vehicle.  Our design team engineers each application to achieve the right balance of handling, comfort, and appearance.  To have acceptable ride quality, the vehicle cannot be “bottomed out.”  Many competitors “super-low” springs eliminate upward wheel travel, and ruin ride quality.  Many “cut” springs ride poorly for the same reasons.

Can I use my stock shocks/struts?
It’s recommended that you change them to achieve maximum ride quality, performance, and save labor dollars (and/or your time).  Call or e-mail (info@progressauto.com) for shock/strut recommendations toll free at 800-905-6687.

Do I need to align my car after installation?
Absolutely; whenever the suspension is changed or repaired it is crucial to have the alignment checked/corrected.  If you are looking for specific, performance alignment recommendations for your car e-mail us (info@progressauto.com) or call 800-905-6687.

Will your Progress Sport Springs affect my vehicle warranty?
Warranty coverage often varies for each vehicle.  Usually, suspension components are generally considered normal wearing parts not covered by warranties.  Vehicle manufacturers are required BY FEDERAL LAW to honor your new vehicle warranty, with exceptions for modified parts and their “related components.”  Modified parts are NOT covered by new vehicle warranties.

Does cutting my springs void my Progress warranty?
Yes.  All Progress Spring kits have a Limited Lifetime Warranty to the original purchaser of the product.  However, The Progress Group WILL NOT warrant any springs that have been cut.

Can I install the springs myself?
We don’t know! Can you?  How much mechanical experience do you have? Suggestion: Buy your vehicle shop manual and review the related sections. Proper installation requires specialized equipment.  It is recommended that an experienced installer perform the swap.  Remember, you also need someone to perform the wheel alignment.

Why didn’t I get the amount of drop I was supposed to?
The amount of drop listed for our applications is an average. There are so many different variations in models (2 door, 4 door, hatchback, different engines, auto or manual transmission, different options, etc…) that the weight of one car compared to another varies significantly. Also, other modifications you have made can affect the weight (heavy amplifiers, subwoofers, etc…).  Another factor that can affect the drop is the age of the vehicle. Older vehicles may have settled over the years, so that you realize less drop than you would if the vehicle were new.

Will my springs “settle down” (wear in or drop a little more) after a while?
No. Anybody that tells you “their brand” of springs need to “settle in” is really saying one of two things: 1) Their springs aren’t pre-set (sometimes called blocking or pre-stressing), which, while saving the manufacturer money, gives you a less durable product and inconsistent ride height, or 2) They just want to get you off the phone. Where you might see some settling is on NEW vehicles. This happens because the rubber suspension bushings tend to settle after a period of time, NOT because the springs have settled.

My car sits crooked – what’s wrong?
This is usually an installation error. The bumpstops must be trimmed (our instructions show you how), and the springs must be properly installed in their perches. Also make sure that you re-assemble the shocks and struts correctly, using all the necessary factory parts (Hondas and Acuras have special washers on the struts that must be put together correctly or serious suspension damage can occur). 

My lowered car is “bouncy”
This is usually a sign of worn-out shock absorbers (struts), or shocks that don’t have enough rebound damping. We recommend that you use a true performance shock absorber, not a bargain brand.  Call or e-mail (info@progressauto.com) our technical staff for recommendations at 800-905-6687.  Bouncing can also be caused by over-lowering (cutting coils), or by not trimming the bump stops.

Why do bushing brackets sometimes break?
Typically the bushing brackets will only break when they have not been tightened down securely after installation.  This will allow the bracket to move against the bolts and eventually it will fatigue the metal and snap off completely. 

How do rear sway bars work on a FWD car with a torsion beam rear end (i.e. Honda Fit, Scion xA/xB, Chevrolet Cobalt/HHR, etc.)?
By reducing deflection of the beam and therefore reducing body roll.

Why do you only make a rear sway bar for my FWD car?
There are some applications that only need a bigger rear sway bar to neutralize the vehicle’s body roll and enhance the vehicle’s handling to optimum levels.  Adding a bigger front sway bar into the mix isn’t always necessary and in some cases it will bring back the unwanted under-steer.

Standard to Metric conversions:
http://www.dfaulknersprings.co.uk/convert.htm

For additional high performance handling information we suggest reading the Mike Kojima, Sport Compact Car Magazines’ articles entitled Making it Stick that can be found here:
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0506_sccp_making_it_stick_part_1/index.html